Trifon Trifonov & Stanimaka
Bulgarian Wedding Music from the Last Century, 2005

On a hill a few kilometres away from Saint-Emilion, close to the village Saint-Aubin de Branne but away from the other houses, there is a little château, neglected and almost wasting away until recently, called "Atelier des Nuages". On the east side, an alley leads up a steep stony incline, then though a gateway into an inner courtyard enclosed by walls, with an overgrown garden. A well marks the centre, and at the end there is a mini-castle from the 16th century, with a broad view to the west, ranging out over woods and vineyards. To the south, a stone remise marks the close of this areal. "Atelier des Nuages" is an enclave created for music and festivities. The current owner is François des Ligneris, an extraordinary man and fascinatingly individual oenologist [Château Soutard, Saint-Emilion, L'R de Rien from 1999] who has chosen this remarkable property to create a little world of his own for art and culture. The name "Atelier des Nuages" [Cloud Studio] refers to the location between two rivers, the Garonne and Dordogne, since for François des Ligneris, rivers are like clouds. In the special series of seminars and concerts called "Musiques de Nuit invite Winter & Winter", directed by Patrick Duval, Uri Caine has already given a solo concert here, and the premiere of "Letters from Shanghai", with the actress Dominique Garras and the musicians Roswitha Dasch and Brave Old World conducted by Alan Bern, took place here too. An invitation to Trifon Trifonov and Stanimaka in Summer 2004 turns this place for one night into a Bulgarian wedding celebration from the middle of the previous century. François des Ligneris and the wonderful group Musiques de Nuit build a wooden stage in front of the remise, a temporary kitchen, long tables covered with white paper serviettes, and wooden chairs; temporary lanterns light up the courtyard and countless bottles of wine from Château Soutard are standing at the ready. The festivities can begin, the guests arrive, take their places, and the musicians come along the pathway over the hill, playing the wedding march Kozbunarsko Xoro in Bayriam Kaev’s version. The Ottoman influences on Bulgarian music remind one of the often tense coexistence of Bulgaria and Turkey. Bulgaria lies at the cutting edge between Europe and the East, in a place where these different ways of life collide like tectonic plates, always creating violent confrontations. In the middle of the 19th century, an uprising led by Georgi Benkovski against the Turkish occupying forces is bloodily suppressed. The Bulgarians are forced to become Moslems or struggle, and the Bulgarian language is forbidden on the streets. But the brutality with which the rebellion it had organised was drowned in blood had positive consequences for Bulgaria, despite the defeat. Many European nations were furious, and protested. Then events happened that would decisively change Bulgarian history. The Russian tsar Alexander II waged war against Turkey. The declaration of the Russo-Turkish war was greeted with enthusiasm by the Bulgarian population in the Ottoman kingdom. After some historical confusion,, the German Prince Ferdinand von Sachsen-Coburg-Gotha was agreed on as the political ruler of Bulgaria. So Georgi Benkovski had made a contribution to creating Bulgaria. In the villages, the poorer people found ways of living together more or less peacefully, and there were marriages between Bulgars and Turks. According to ancient tradition, the Bulgarian clarinettist Bayriam Kaev forwarded the Tracia style [Kozbunarsko Xoro] to the younger generation, just like a story teller. The repertoire and performing style were passed down by playing and imitation. Trifon Trifonov, rather like the brothers Grimm, is now writing down the music inherited from older generations, to preserve it for the future, and make it accessible once more. The accordion player Ivan Milev gave his name to the piece Mileva Rachenitsa. His father - also an accordionist - performed in Bayriam Kaev's group together with the drummer Vasil Karavasilev [his familiy name is half Turkish]. In 1944, in keeping with the new Russian communist powers, Vasil Karavasilev was beaten up by a Bulgarian policeman because his drum had "American Jazz" written on it. So he turned the drum skin around, and inscribed "Moscow Circus" on it. A week later he had another clash with the police, and this time the drum was stomped. After this incidence he stopped playing music for five years until Trifon Trifonov’s father wanted him to play at a wedding, but with no drum skin, that wasn’t on. When a calf was slaughtered in the neighbourhood, Vasil Karavasilev begged the owner to let him use the skin. But he had to leave the head and feet attached to the skin, because the hide still had to be sold. Vasil Karavasilev stretched the cow skin over his drum, and both head and feet wiggled at every stroke. After the wedding he gave the skin back, as promised, and even today, musicians in and around Plovdiv like to tell this droll story. Half of the population of Pazardjik, to the west of Plovdiv, was once Turkish, so in the piece Tatar Pazardjik [Pazardjik Market], the zurna plays a main role, since Turks particularly like the sound of this instrument. The reciprocal relationship between Bulgaria and Turkey has influenced Bulgarian folk music and its instruments. The song Katil Georgy is dedicated to another legendary folk hero, who fought for Bulgaria alone, fearlessly, relying only on himself, and was incarcerated in a Greek prison in Solun [Thessaloniki], where he was interrogated and tortured. Even today, Trifon Trifonov and Stanimaka are still playing the wonderful legend of their hero Georgi. Alongside these tales of the pride and power of the Bulgarian people, almost crushed between Serbia, Greece and Turkey, a wedding has to have love songs too. Stanke Le is a song about an utterly infatuated man who rides ten horses to death to get his Stanke, and desires nothing more than to possess her, and get her from her mother. Until the fifties of the previous century, women were not permitted in wedding groups: all songs were sung by the men. It’s only in recent years that this tradition has changed: now women can take part. Now more legends are told – this time about Indje Voivoda, who was killed at a battle with the Ottomans in Prut, in 1821. Indje is venerated as a defender of the oppressed Bulgarians … And the wood’s leaves wept bitter tears, as Indje was struck between the eyes. No-one was there to help him, to bring him water, to sooth his wounds, and Indje says to the wood, don’t weep for me. The following balada leads into Rachenitsa ot Topolovo. The clarinettist Asen Dimitrov has perpetuated this sensual dance. He’s one of Bulgaria’s musical magicians, and a whole village can dance to his music for up to 15 hours. Wedding days are special days: young and old join in the festivities, celebrating, dancing, eating and drinking. At the end of the wedding feast comes Gleday Me Ajshe: a homage to gypsy music. Trifon Trifonov’s mother recorded this song on a cassette, so as to pass it on to Velichka Trendafilova-Gioreva: Look at me, Ajshe: today I’m here, tomorrow I’m gone! I’m going to Slatina. What should I buy you at the market? Bring me glittering pearls and a shiny belt for my hips. And with another rendering of Kozbunarsko Xoro, the wedding procession goes away over the hill from the "Atelier des Nuages". For a few hours, Trifon Trifonov and Stanimaka have brought Bulgarian life into this enclave. There’ll never be a celebration like this here again. - Stefan Winter
Eine "Reise in eine fremde Welt" verspricht der Pressetext. Andererseits führt die Reise "nur" nach Bulgarien, beliebtes Ferienziel am Schwarzen Meer, Aufnahmekandidat für die Europäische Union - ein Land zwar nicht "in der Mitte", aber auch nicht wirklich "am Rande" Europas. Dennoch: was weiß man hierzulande wirklich?
Weiß man, dass die Kultur der Thraker im Gebiet des heutigen Bulgarien wurzelt? Dass sich hier seit Jahrhunderten die Kulturen des Balkans, der Türkei und Griechenlands begegneten - wenn auch nur selten in friedlicher Absicht? Erst Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts konnten sich die Bulgaren von ihren türkischen Besatzern befreien, mit Unterstützung des russischen Zaren Alexander II. Der neue Staat wurde übrigens zunächst von einem Deutschen geführt: Prinz Ferdinand von Sachsen-Coburg-Gotha. Die Menschen in den Dörfern, Bulgaren, Türken und andere Volkgruppen, lernten friedlich miteinander zu leben, es kam sogar zu Eheschließungen zwischen den ehemals verfeindeten Gruppen.
Dies ist wohl der Ausgangspunkt eines äußerst ungewöhnlichen CD-Projekts mit dem Titel "Bulgarian Wedding - Music from the last century", das - noch ungewöhnlicher - in Frankreich entstand. Dort baute Francois des Ligneris den Hof seines Weinguts in der Nähe von Saint-Emilion zu einem Studio um, das er "Atelier des Nuages" nennt, und in das er immer wieder Musiker zu Aufnahmen einlädt.
Für den bulgarischen Saxophonisten Trifon Trifonov und sein Ensemble Stanimaka machte des Ligneris eine Ausnahme, denn für die Einspielung traditioneller bulgarischer Hochzeitsmusik des 19. Jahrhunderts schien es sinnvoller, diese in einer möglichst authentischen Atmosphäre geschehen zu lassen. Deshalb ließ er eigens eine Außenbühne zimmern, stellte lange, "mit weißen Papierdecken ausgelegte Tische, und Holzstühle" auf, während zeitgenössische Lampen den Hof erleuchteten und zahllose Flaschen des hauseigenen Weines bereitsgestellt wurden ... "Das Fest kann beginnen, die Gäste treffen ein, nehmen ihre Plätze ein, die Musiker kommen den Pfad über den Berg entlang und spielen den Hochzeitsmarsch 'Kozbunarsko Xoro' ..." (Booklet). Die komplette CD wurde so vor dieser einzigartigen Kulisse aufgenommen.
Die Themen der Musik sind universell: Liebe, Glück und Leidenschaft, aber auch Trauer über die Kriegsopfer und dramatische Legenden aus der Historie des Landes und seiner Menschen. So wechseln temperamentvolle Märsche und elegische Balladen einander ab, letztere vorgetragen mit der markanten Stimme von Velichka Trendafilova-Gioreva. Früher, erzählt das Booklet, hätten die Lieder übrigens ausschließlich von Männern gesungen werden dürfen.
Ebenso stilvoll wie das gesamte Arrangement dieser Aufnahme ist auch die CD selbst gestaltet. Das Begleitheft enthält zahlreiche Informationen zu den einzelnen Titeln, ihren Ursprüngen und den zum Teil abenteuerlichen Bedingungen, unter denen sie überliefert wurden. So rückt schließlich die fremde Welt Bulgariens ein wenig näher. - Michael Frost
01. The Wedding Procession Kozbunarsko Xoro 4:36
02. Mileva Rachenitsa 9:33
03. Bre Ivane 4:46
04. Tatar Pazardjik 4:52
05. Katil Georgy 6:00
06. Stanke Le 6:20
07. Indje Voivóda 2:38
08. Balada i Rachenitsa ot Topolovo 18:23
09. Gleday Me Ajshe 3:49
10. The Wedding Procession Kozbunarsko Xoro 4:57
Trifon Trifonov - alto saxophone, vocals
Velichka Trendafilova - vocals
Stoyan Nedelchev - violin, trumpet
Stoyan Grigorov - accordion
Dimiter Dimitrov - clarinet
Iliya Krastev - tapan
flac including full scans
Part 1 |
Part 2 |
Part 3 |
Part 4 |
Part 5